What is the firing order for a 1009 dodge ram 1500 series with a 5.3Ĭheck Details Firing order 57 hemi spark plug wiring diagramĥ.7 hemi firing order diagram5.7 hemi firing order diagram 5.7 hemi dodge ramWhat is the firing order for a 1009 dodge ram 1500 series with a 5.3.Ģ005 57 hemi engine diagram07 dodge ram 3.7 firing order 5.7 hemi water pump bolt diagram 5 7 hemi vvt diagram. No comment addedDodge jeep chrysler 5.7l hemi engine firing order and mds cylinder 2010 dodge 5.7 firing orderHemi order firing diagram cutaway fukuoka japan lifter replace trucks cars. Will again do my own alignment, via the string method.Diagram engine chevy v8 350 hemi firing order drawing chevrolet wiring dodge ram parts exploded 1986 c10 silverado truck 7l 2011 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi firing order 57 hemi firing order diagram 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi Firing Order - Ignition Systems A Short 2007 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi serpentine belt diagram Firing order decal fits dodge big block mopar 383 400 440 426 v8 engineįiring order decal fits dodge big block mopar 383 400 440 426 v8 engineFiring order dodge ram comment added 2008 2015 dodge ram 1500 2wd 3.6 firing orderChrysler 331 hemi firing order. When they come in, will try to get the lengths to match up with the original ones so alignment will be easier. These are the original tie rods, with 395K miles on them. I figured, if 3 of the boots are torn, it won't be much longer until the 4th one tears. Ordered all four tie rods and new sleeves. Which I thought was the problem, but now I've seen it visually. Only slight, but I guess it's enough to cause my steering to wander. I think the only tie rod that had play was the passenger side outer. While under the truck, noticed 3 out of 4 of the tie rods had ripped boots. With the experience and knowledge gained from doing the passenger side, the driver's side only took 4.5 hours. Went to the closest store and all they had was a $60 Dewalt, which I bought so I wouldn't have to drive into the city, saving myself a bit of time. But most of the time it didn't move at all. Pulling the trigger a few times, every now and then, the drill would rotate 1/8 to a 1/4 turn. When I picked it back up, it wouldn't come on. It didn't die while using it, but after I put it down. I guess I used it for too long and the heat buildup killed it. I had to go to the store to replace my drill. And stopping to get on this forum to ask about the torque values for the mounting bolts. But that time also included about 30 mins to run to the store, stopping to look up torque values on the internet that wasn't in my FSM. I ended up going 50 ft-lbs on the top ball joint mounting bolts and 95 ft-lbs on the bottom ball joint mounting bolts. If the six lines mean grade 8, then the FSM says those should be 95 ft-lbs in cast iron.ĭoes that sound accurate? Or should I be using some other torque values? Which, I'm guessing is what the control arm is made out of. Looking at page 4 of the FSM, 12.9 with a 10mm diameter says 50 ft-lbs in cast iron. The lower ball joints don't have a number, but have six lines and say CHS. The upper bolts have a 12.9 on them and say CHS. The ball joints are the Moog brand from Carquest. But can't find any torque values for the 3 upper and 4 lower mounting bolts. I'm guessing LD=1500 and HD=2500/3500?īut what do I torque the ball joint mounting bolts to? I've got blue loctite so will use that. And the lower ball joint to knuckle is 95 ft-lbs for LD and 110 ft-lbs for HD. The FSM says the upper ball joint to knuckle is 60 ft-lbs. I finally got the rivets out on the passenger side.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |